Just like your conventional internal combustion engine (ICE), my electric car has a standard 12V car battery that powers electronics when the main power supply is deactivated. Also like your car, this battery is susceptible to failure, as it proved to me on a cold Sunday morning.
As I was getting ready to run an errand on Superbowl Sunday, I was stunned when I went to unlock the door on my Nissan LEAF and nothing happened. I tried pressing the buttons on the key fob as well as the proximity sensor on the on the door handle. Nothing.
I pulled the conventional key out of the key fob and assumed that the key fob had a low battery. After sitting down in the driver’s seat, I pressed the power button. Nothing. No startup sound, no flutter of lights, no “No Key” warning light flashing on the dash. Complete silence.
I wondered if the car may have somehow discharged in the one day that I didn’t drive it, so I tried to release the charge port lid and realized that there was no way to release the lid without power to the vehicle. Sounds crazy, right?
After researching multiple web forums, I came to an alarming solution: I needed to jump start my electric car.
How a car with 24kWh of power packed under its chasis could not power its own on-board computer was beyond me. That 12V “accessory” battery under the hood was the only thing preventing me from getting on my way. After a short call to the roadside assistance, a technician was able to come and give me a “jump” to provide enough power to the 12V battery to initiate the on-board computer and bring the car “online.”
After the jump, I drove the car around to recharge the 12V battery for twenty minutes or so, hoping that the drive would put enough energy back onto the 12V to allow for an easy departure to work the next morning. Luckily, this morning when I left the house the car started with absolutely no problem.
I brought the car to the dealership after work and learned that the only certified LEAF technician that they have had called off for the day, so right now I am waiting for one of their ICE technicians to check the 12V battery, which I explained to to the service adviser, is no different from any other conventional car battery.
Even with the most sophisticated technology, there is always an Achilles’s heel. For your 4G smartphone, it might be the strength of your cell signal, or for your tablet it might be the absence of a WiFi connection. In my case, a completely battery powered car, fully charged with 24kWh of electricity couldn’t start, simply because of a failed 12V battery…
3 thoughts on “Jump Starting My Electric Car”
Hey Peter … thanks for posting this blog. I just returned from vaca and my Fiat 500e was DOA. Unfortunately our local Fiat dealer closed so the the nearest service is in Berkeley, CA so they would have had to flatbed her down. I jumped her with my truck and voilà, she’s electric again! Thanks for posting this … it was a huge help!
“In my case, a completely battery powered car, fully charged with 24kWh of electricity couldn’t start, simply because of a failed 12V battery…” may not be true for all manufacturers – I suggest qualifying the statement, to point out that is true for you Nissan Leaf [production year] and may not be true for other brands/models.
Aside from that, informative post! Thanks!
And to continue my post: according to the research I did, any Tesla is monitoring the 12V battery and it is using the main battery pack to charge it when needed. It will, however, break the circuit with the 12V battery when the main battery pack is very low… (and yes, I know Tesla had issues with the 12V battery in past). I curious about Bolt on this issue…